Sails:
Of course it’s just my comments. Tom Matteusz and anyone must feel free to do their own analyse and share with us. Tom has some pictures that can help.
Mainsail:
The take up we did in the low battens was too much and that unbalance the vertical distribution of the draft of the sail.
Too much camber back on the bottom section.
The main brakes in two pieces in the middle. Difficult to keep the top of the sail closed without over trimming the bottom.
I put the rig forward to create some shape in the middle and I kept no shim in front of the mast to band the bottom part. We increased the speed big time compare to the match racing by doing that and change the Genoa 1 for the new one.
Difficult to keep the sail in control in 25nds a lot of backwind. Before the take-up 20nds flat water code 2 we where flying in Garda.
If I trim the sail to keep control of the twist the bottom back was super close due of the take-up and the boat was going very slow. I had to twist the sail big time to keep the speed up traveller middle or up to keep the sail not flapping totally.
I’ve used the vang upwind to try to band the bottom part of the mast.
Rake setting
8 nds – rake 15
12 nds – rake 20
20 nds – rake 25
My suggestion would be to go back a little bit with this main, re-open the back of the sail keeping the same lufcurve and use this main for heavy air conditions “arme fatale”.
And order a new all purpose main.
Then you have 2 options:
Option 1:
If we want to continue with “One sail” we need to practice and develop the product invest at least on 3 new mainsails having the designer as a coach and observer on every regattas and training camp to make pictures and help us on the tuning of the sail and mast.
Option 2:
If you don’t have this time then you buy what is fast today and you make the best effort to trim it properly.
Personally I would go towards Hiroshy type of main (looks very quick) (North ITA), Cereef (North NZL), BMW (North ?), Artemis.
Genoa:
Same comment than in Garda we are slow in light air our code 1 needs to be replaced (Same comment on the 2 options).
Code 2 looks quite good not super fresh but OK (what do you think TOM ?)
Genaker:
- Code 1 very light air type of spinnaker, or big waves. With flat water I would rather hoist the code 2 above 5/6 nds.
- Code 2 good sail in my opinion.
Racing capture:
Heavy air:
Before baring away top mark 25 nds, call the ease of the sails wait the boat goes flat and you turn the wheel.
Down wind sail fast is safe!
You’ve got 3 types of jibes.
N°1 light air: You ease the kite when fully pressed and then you turn the boat around.
N°2 medium: “French jibe” you bare away slowly and do a slow turn easing the main and filling the kite on the other tack before jibing the main.
N°3 heavy: start the jibe full speed and make sure you turn the boat fast enough on the beginning to jibe the main then you slow down the turn to wait the kite filled.
Approach the gate: 1 minute to the first layline when nothing is clear is a safe move.
Starting routine:
Remember the loops we did in Garda. You position yourself 2’ before the gun that help us to keep the speed and control tour time and distance.
Starting technique: avoid to slow down and stop on the last minute. Must be full speed doing more distance to burn time and not stop and go 15” to the start. That means you must position yourself almost timing with 10” to kill by sailing more distance up and down full speed.
dimanche 12 octobre 2008
jeudi 9 octobre 2008
Friuli Venezia Giulia TRIESTE - Match Race report.
Match 1: Wibroe 4 -5 nds.
We wanted the left.
By jibing at the entry as blue you guaranty to have a good speed in position 3 when you’re about to jibe back on starboard.
Good start on the side we want. He turns the boat too fast. Very important to kep the speed up light air start. Light air tactic's: don't play match race play the wind avoid tacks.
“Short court effect”. You'll pay a little bit on the layline sailing slow and high. You build the speed high when he’s on your air that gives you good short court effect faster at the tack and at the hoist you'll keep the benefit of your speed very long.
Match 2: Barker 4 – 5 nds
Right end line. We wanted the right.
Jibe a little bit too late I should had more leverage to push him lower to the line.
We get the side but too slow after the start.
Match 3: Henriksen 4 – 5 nds.
We enter on time but the line was port end and he catch us on a dial down.
In these conditions it’s so painful to be dial up or down than you could imagine to hoist the kite to cross. Pretty radical but we use to do that in J80 or the Cup Boat in 2000.
You don’t get a perfect first hoist at the top mark but you can cross which is crucial.
Good way to get rid from the hook is to sail upwind create a speed difference and tack. Very difficult to get rid of a dial up in this breeze. Especially because the line was so long than if you chose to sail down you ended up far from the line and less time to do anything. We did a circle who is not on the dial but that helps to sail upwind with a good difference of speed fon your side.
We get out with a decent start regarding the conditions it could have been more painful.
Another possibility would have been to sail a little bit longer up wind and try to tack and take his stern to do that you need more space.
Proposal:
The speed is hugely important in match racing because you only have one opponent. If you’re slower you will lose anyhow.
We should sail with proper sails for match race, I mean the new ones.
We’ve got so little time to train than the trimmers will take a lot of improvement to sail with the same sails in the 2 events match race and fleet. We will learn the boat better. There is no dial up so you don’t damage the jibs so much and a good main will last long enough to do the all season.
We wanted the left.
By jibing at the entry as blue you guaranty to have a good speed in position 3 when you’re about to jibe back on starboard.
Good start on the side we want. He turns the boat too fast. Very important to kep the speed up light air start. Light air tactic's: don't play match race play the wind avoid tacks.
“Short court effect”. You'll pay a little bit on the layline sailing slow and high. You build the speed high when he’s on your air that gives you good short court effect faster at the tack and at the hoist you'll keep the benefit of your speed very long.
Match 2: Barker 4 – 5 nds
Right end line. We wanted the right.
Jibe a little bit too late I should had more leverage to push him lower to the line.
We get the side but too slow after the start.
Match 3: Henriksen 4 – 5 nds.
We enter on time but the line was port end and he catch us on a dial down.
In these conditions it’s so painful to be dial up or down than you could imagine to hoist the kite to cross. Pretty radical but we use to do that in J80 or the Cup Boat in 2000.
You don’t get a perfect first hoist at the top mark but you can cross which is crucial.
Good way to get rid from the hook is to sail upwind create a speed difference and tack. Very difficult to get rid of a dial up in this breeze. Especially because the line was so long than if you chose to sail down you ended up far from the line and less time to do anything. We did a circle who is not on the dial but that helps to sail upwind with a good difference of speed fon your side.
We get out with a decent start regarding the conditions it could have been more painful.
Another possibility would have been to sail a little bit longer up wind and try to tack and take his stern to do that you need more space.
Proposal:
The speed is hugely important in match racing because you only have one opponent. If you’re slower you will lose anyhow.
We should sail with proper sails for match race, I mean the new ones.
We’ve got so little time to train than the trimmers will take a lot of improvement to sail with the same sails in the 2 events match race and fleet. We will learn the boat better. There is no dial up so you don’t damage the jibs so much and a good main will last long enough to do the all season.
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